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Sunday, January 26, 2014

Time on the Kenyan coast

After a couple of days at Voi Wildlife Lodge we headed back out onto the Nairobi-Mombassa road to make our way toward Kilifi on the northern coast of Kenya. According to Google maps we were only 88 miles from our destination, but that doesn't mean much in Africa!

After settling back into the chaos of the road, we turned off the main road in order to avoid going through Mombassa. All looked good as we travelled on relatively quiet country roads and through palm lined valleys. Unfortunately the first road we were looking for was closed and half an hour later we were advised that the next road was impassable as well! So after our nice little detour, it was back to the main road and on to Mombassa!

I can't say it was a particularly pleasant drive but it sure was an experience. Road works heading into Mombassa slowed the traffic to stand still as cars, trucks and buses competed for every little bit of space - including the 'footpath'. Fortunately we were communicating with the Mays via walkie talkie and so got a heads up to turn off before we got really stuck. This turn took us through some rather interesting neighbourhoods and left a few in the car feeling a little anxious, but thanks be to God we got through Mombassa and on to Kilifi without further incident. That 88 miles only too us 5 hours to drive but man, was the drive worth it!


The view from the room shown below



The view from the balcony outside three of the seven bedrooms.

Pastor May only gets about a week of holidays per year and he and Tiina had been kind enough to invite us to come along and join them for this break. Together we rented this amazing house, complete with cooking, housekeeping and security staff. It is situated on the Kilifi Creek which opens into the ocean, but don't be fooled - this creek is no trickle!

Our days at Kilifi were marked by lots of relaxing, swimming, reading and a little exploring. We enjoyed some of the local seafood delivered direct to our door by local fishermen, as well as goat and some other local treats.


Like most of Africa, Kilifi is marked by extreme contrasts with local people trying to simply survive selling mangos or vegetables or their day's catch, while others enjoy the natural beauty and the 'toys' their imported wealth can buy.


It is a beautiful part of the world and we are so grateful for the time we had to be blessed by our new found friendship with the May family. On our second last day there we headed out - all 12 of us in the Landcruiser - and ventured down some dirt tracks that appeared to be going nowhere. At the end of the track we came to the Kilifi Boatyard where we had booked for lunch - ordering local oysters which they went out to pick just for us! At 7 cents a piece, we spent up big and ordered 50! Stunning views, great food and even better company - what a great way to finish up!






Armed with local knowledge we left for Nairobi determined to avoid Mombassa at all costs! It turned out to be quite an adventure as we went off road and travelled through remote villages for a couple of hours. Fortunately we came across a man sitting on the side of the road quietly hoping for a lift to the town we needed to find and with his directions, we were soon back on the Nairobi Road again and contending with the chaos. The next 6 or 7 hours were filled with dodging crazy buses, overtaking ridiculously slow trucks, seeing the remnants of the those who were not so lucky and then successfully negotiating Nairobi traffic just prior to peak hour. (We do have some photos from that part of the trip but they're all on Laryssa's iPad so if you want to see them, you'll have to come visit when we get home!)

After nearly 12 hard hours on the road any sense of bring refreshed was long gone. I can't imagine how Pastor May does it year after year. Sure Kilifi was a wonderful place to stay, but the stress of the drive home had certainly undone much of the refreshment we all need to survive. We have to come up with something better to support these guys in their tough ministry.

While at Kilifi it was decided that we would fly to Tanzania a couple of days after returning to Nairobi for the teaching seminar that had been planned. We had previously planned to drive but another two days on the road each way seemed a little foolish and risky. So once back in Nairobi we had time to wash our clothes, pack the books and bags, and head off to taste a bit more of Africa!

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